8 april 2025
Cosmax introduces Corelink-S™, the world’s first pH-responsive hair repair technology
Korean cosmetic manufacturing giant Cosmax has announced the successful development of Corelink-S™, the world’s first ingredient designed to strengthen and repair hair by responding to pH changes.
A collaborative achievement: Cosmax and Seoul National University
Corelink-S™ was created in partnership with Professor Lee Yeon’s (이연) research team from the Department of Chemistry at Seoul National University, through the Seoul National University-COSMAX TIC (Technology Incubation Center).
Established in 2019, the Seoul National University-Cosmax TIC is an interdisciplinary research centre dedicated to developing novel beauty and health solutions that integrate advanced convergence technologies such as AI and Big Data. Prior to this initiative, Seoul National University-Cosmax TIC had already partnered with multiple faculties at Seoul National University, including the College of Natural Sciences, the College of Engineering, and the College of Fine Arts.
Addressing consumer needs
Recently, there has been a growing consumer demand for effective solutions to strengthen and repair hair damaged by frequent treatments like perming and colouring. According to a study by the global market research company Mintel, by the way, one-third of South Korean consumers regard hair damage repair as the most important factor when purchasing haircare products.
The science of Corelink-S™
Hair is mainly composed of keratin, a tough protein formed by chains of amino acids. These chains are linked by cysteine bonds (derived from the amino acid cysteine) which create a sturdy, cross-linked structure that helps hair maintain its shape and elasticity. Chemical treatments like perming and colouring can compromise hair integrity by breaking these cysteine bonds, which weakens the strands and gives them a negative charge.
Corelink-S™ has been specifically designed to repair this damage by reacting to the changes in pH levels within the hair. Unlike conventional treatments that only work on the hair’s surface, Corelink-S™ reaches deep into the hair shaft, without being affected by the negative charge on the hair’s surface.
Once inside, the molecule undergoes a charge conversion. When the environment becomes slightly acidic (low pH), Corelink-S™ shifts from a weakly negative charge to a positive charge. This positive charge allows the ingredient to bind to the negatively charged, broken cysteine bonds in damaged hair, much like repairing a snapped rope. This restores the internal structure of the damaged hair to be more close to the condition of healthy hair.
Clinical tests showed that hair treated with Corelink-S™ exhibited over 120% greater tensile strength (its ability to resist breaking when pulled) compared to untreated damaged hair.
The technology is currently pending a patent.
Enhancing delivery with Bicapture Elixir
Cosmax also developed a delivery system called “Bicapture Elixir“, a patented technology designed to ensure that active ingredients penetrate deeply into the hair.
Traditional hair oils typically do not contain sufficient water-based (hydrophilic) ingredients to effectively penetrate the hair, resulting in only surface-level effects. In contrast, “Bicapture Elixir” allows both oil-based and water-based active ingredients, such as Corelink-S™, to be delivered deep into the hair. This provides two major benefits: it instantly smooths the hair cuticle and improves the hair’s tensile strength over the long term.
Global expansion
Based on these discoveries, Cosmax is currently expanding its research on hair damage on a global scale to strengthen its presence in the international hair care market, particularly targeting consumers in regions like Europe and North America, where people tend to have finer hair that is more susceptible to damage.
A spokesperson from Cosmax stated:
“It is truly meaningful that our joint research with Seoul National University has once again delivered a world-first achievement. […] With our innovative technology and tailored global research, we are determined to make a difference in the hair care market, which is as diverse as the unique skin needs of eight billion people”.
Source: Cosmax.
Words: © 2025 Odile Monod.
Visuals: Cosmax.
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